Journal · Riyadh

The first month in Riyadh is a sequence, not a shopping list.

Land, get a number that is yours, learn the iqama date, and do not sign a year of rent because the agent is still in the stairwell.

A late-afternoon residential street in Riyadh, apartment blocks and a small grocery

People arrive with a folder of screenshots and a personality that wants to finish Saudi Arabia in a weekend. The city does not finish. The first month is a few doors in a particular order. Miss the order and you spend the second month undoing the first: a SIM in someone else’s name, a flat you hate, a bank that will not open because the address is a hotel, a colleague who already has your Absher code.

I am writing this for a person who has a job, or the start of one, and a place to sleep tonight that is not yet a decision. If you are here on a tourist visa for four days, almost none of this applies. Go and walk. This page is for staying.

Nothing below is an application we can file for you. Fees move. The riyal on the official screen is the one you pay.

The first three days

You will be tired in a way that makes you agreeable. Agreeable is expensive. Sleep before you sign.

A SIM that answers to you

Buy a line that the shop registers against your iqama, in the branch, while you watch. A “friend’s extra SIM” is how your one-time codes leave the room. If the clerk says the iqama already has as many lines as the system allows, that is a system message. Ask which lines, and with HR if you must. Do not let the clerk invent a workaround that puts the new number under his cousin.

Test it before you leave the shop. Call your own second phone, or the desk at work. A SIM that cannot receive a code is not a SIM yet. Airport tourist lines are for landing. They are not the number Absher should trust for the next year.

Absher, once, yourself

Open it on that new number. Read the expiry. Look for fines even if you have not driven. Look for an exit visa only if you already know you must travel. Then stop. The longer version of that hour is the Absher note. The short version is: nobody else types the password.

Food and a walk, not a compound tour

Eat rice in a room that was already full. Learn where the grocery under the building closes. Walk the block after dark once, so you know whether the street is families, workers, or a road that is only a road. You cannot judge a neighbourhood from the passenger seat at noon with the agent talking.

  • SIM in your name, tested.
  • Absher opened by you, expiry written down.
  • One ordinary meal, one walk after dark.
  • No yearly contract yet.

Housing, which is the decision that lasts

Rent is the budget. Everything else in the first month is smaller, including the meal you will photograph. Riyadh still likes a year paid in a shape that surprises people who are used to a deposit and a month. Ask the question in the first conversation, not after you have imagined your sofa there.

What to ask before you like the flat

How many cheques, and when. Whether electricity and water sit inside the number or arrive later as a summer surprise. Whether the air conditioning is the building’s or a tired box in the window. Who lives above you, if the agent actually knows. Whether the contract is in your name or the company’s. A company flat and a cash allowance are different lives. An allowance that does not cover the district they showed you is not housing. It is a speech.

Sleep there, or near there, before the cheque. A furnished monthly place for two or three weeks costs more per night and is still cheaper than a year in a building that faces a generator. The bands we use for planning, not as a listing, are in the Riyadh cost note. A room in a shared flat, a plain one-bedroom and a compound are three cities. Do not let an agent average them into “around four thousand, brother.”

The national address, after you actually live there

Saudi Post’s national address is the short code banks and a lot of services ask for. Register it when the flat is really yours, not from the hotel on night two. A hotel code feels clever until you move and every letter, and some logins, still believe you sleep beside the lobby. If the building has no clear address yet, that is a fact about the building. It is also a reason to hesitate.

You will need the landlord, or the company, to match what you type. Names that do not match the contract become a week of visits. Do this in the second week, not in the airport queue and not six months later when a bank finally asks and you are already angry.

Work, the bank, and the paper that is not Absher

Read the contract before you decorate

Qiwa is where labour contracts are meant to live. Ask HR whether yours is there, and whether the salary on that contract is the salary in the offer. People discover a smaller number after they have bought a bed. Probation, the notice period, who pays the iqama renewal, and whether housing is cash or a key: those four lines are the first month’s real reading. A friendly office manager is not a substitute for the line.

If your family is coming later, put the dependent levy on the same page as the salary before you tell them to pack. Where it applies it is commonly referenced around SAR 400 a person a month. It is not inside the rent. It does not care that the school fees were “to be discussed.”

The bank can wait a week

A bank wants an iqama that opens, often a national address, sometimes a letter, sometimes a salary transfer that has not happened yet because you have not been paid. Opening three accounts in the first forty-eight hours is a hobby. Open one, at a bank your employer actually transfers to, after the address exists. Carry the iqama. Do not carry a stranger who says he can “push the application.”

Until that account lives, know how you will eat. Some people last on cash longer than they admit. Say the number to yourself. A city is not kind to a person who assumed the card would work on Thursday and the card works next Thursday.

How the city actually feels

Riyadh in the months from October to April can be walked, in the evening, if you pick a place that is a place. In summer the same street is a reason to stay indoors between late morning and the call that lets the day start again. Your first month may fall in either. Do not decide you hate the city from a July pavement. Do not decide you understand it from one mild November dinner.

Friday is not a free day for errands

Shops close. The hour around prayer empties ordinary plans. If your first Friday is also the day you meant to collect a key from an office, you have planned a closed door. Use it for Diriyah or for nothing. The longer version is the Friday note. The useful piece now is: do not stack a ministry, a mall and a neighbourhood into the one day the city refuses to be stacked.

Driving can wait

Taxis and the colleague who already has a car will cover the first weeks. A licence is a real project, medical and either a conversion or a school, and it is described in the licence note. Borrowing a car “just until the card arrives,” on a road you do not know, with a fine camera you have not met, is how a first month grows a debt. If you do sit behind a wheel, the fines attach to a record. That record is the same iqama you are trying to keep clean.

What to ignore

  • Anyone selling a pre-opened bank account.
  • Anyone selling a driving licence without a test.
  • A furniture package that must be decided tonight.
  • A second SIM “for Absher, trust me.” You already have the one.
  • A list of twenty tourist sites. You live here. AlUla can be a later ticket.

A month that is finished

By day thirty a settled person has a SIM in their name, an Absher login nobody else knows, an expiry date written down, a national address that matches the bed, one bank that matches the salary, and a rent decision they made after at least one night in the area. They have eaten in the neighbourhood more than once. They have not joined five WhatsApp groups that trade passport photos.

If one of those is missing, it is still the first month. Fix the missing one before you buy the larger television. The television will fit the flat you keep. It will not fit the flat you are about to argue your way out of.

Families add a layer this page only points at: school visits, the levy, a flat with more than one quiet room, and a visa for the people who are not here yet. Do that with the contract in front of you. Do not do it from a video of a fountain.

Conclusion

The first month in Riyadh is won by sequence. Number, Absher, a walk, then a place you have slept near, then the address, then the bank, then the car if you still want one. The city will still be there in week six. The cheque you signed on night two will be there too, which is the problem.

Questions people actually ask

What should I do in the first week in Riyadh?

Get a SIM in your own name, open Absher yourself, write down the iqama expiry, eat once in a normal room, and walk the block after dark. Do not sign a yearly rent cheque until you have slept in that neighbourhood at least once.

Do I need a national address in the first month?

Yes, once the flat is actually yours. Banks and other services ask for the Saudi Post national address. Register the place you live, not the hotel you used for a week. A wrong code follows you longer than the suitcase does.

Is a furnished monthly flat a bad idea at the start?

For two or three weeks it is often the sane idea. The nightly price is higher. The price of a one-year contract in a building you have only seen at noon, with the agent still talking, is higher than that.

Related notes

Updated 18 October 2026. KSA GUIDE is independent and based in Riyadh. We do not open bank accounts, SIMs, or residencies. Confirm every fee on the official screen.

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